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When curating a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate renowned award-winning venues. However, tucked prominently among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant part of northern London.

A Surprise Recognition

This compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. The recognition has made the proprietors totally surprised.

“I’m completely astonished,” states the family member, pointing to his family’s relentless work that led to their modest shop earning such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a popular spot, has retained much of its former character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this establishment certainly delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this modest spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into many times that price.

A Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s success is set to resonate beyond its own premises. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this culinary triumph.